As soon as I began keeping bees at the turn of this century, the alternative of hive here from the UK was either National or WBC or, even if you had larger aspirations, Commercial. The Langstroth was considered as American and anything produced from straw was only quaint at best, and at worst, a tragedy waiting to happen. Now, less than 20 decades after, we additionally possess the Warré, the flat top bar hive, the Lazutin, the ZEST along with other heavy boxes, also for straw lovers, a few interesting variations on the skep. This has generated two new issues for the newcomer: which hive to begin with and the best way to convince bees in it.
In these days it was simple: that the National has been the go-to alternative due to its ubiquity. People who enjoyed the expression of this WBC and weren’t put off from the additional work could still utilize the very same frames, albeit fewer of these. You paid approximately #25 for an overwintered nuc and roughly twice that to get a hive and in a flash, you’re a brand new beekeeper.
Somehow, in a couple of years, costs of nucs doubled, and doubled again, and again, and costs of this woodenware also improved, such that there’s presently an important price to beginning in beekeeping. If you go down the traditional path: you can anticipate to put down about #500 to get a hive with bees and also fundamental apparel.
Should you choose the road less traveled and construct your very own top bar hive – horizontal or vertical – you can surely spend less on hardware, but you have another problem: The way to put bees in your hive, provided that a conventional 5-frame nuc won’t fit into your own odd-shaped box, also appropriate nucs are as rare as hen’s teeth. For more details, check safe bee removal services.
Once I started to teach novices about high bar hives, we utilized a somewhat brutal technique we called”harvest and chop”, which entailed performing the extreme and irreversible operation on the paints and frames of a normal nuc to induce it to match the trapezoidal type of a flat top bar hive. It worked pretty well, but took a bee-proof covering and about the de-framed pubs and was substantially messy when there was a complete frame of brood to manage. A much better method needed to be discovered.
My regular advice was and still is – when you can, begin with a swarm. Ideally, begin with baiting a swarm straight in your hive, since this gives powerful evidence that simply by opting to be there, they believe it high in their list of perfect homes and they’re more likely to flourish than not. Swarms can be drawn to hives by baiting them with a few empty combs from a different (healthy) hive, rubbing wax and propolis around the woodwork, and by adding a couple of drops of my Magic Swarm Bait, which includes one component geranium essential oil into 2 components lemongrass oil.
The fantastic thing about swarm baiting is you can establish numerous boxes that are really only tiny hives – 10-12 pubs is fantastic for a TBH lure box – and set them in many distinct places to multiply your chances of succeeding. The not-so-great issue is that you’re relying on bees discovering that your boxes, which can be very likely in a place comprising a reasonable amount of beekeepers, but progressively less probable the farther you’re away from civilization. If you’re more than just a few miles from different beehives or wild-living colonies, then your odds diminish exponentially (I guess it follows the inverse square law: chances are inversely proportional to the square of this distance from the closest apiary).
You can get proactive and place yourself around as a swarm catcher, which might create a better result, that you do not mind dealing with several inquiries about bumblebees beneath sheds, hoverflies masquerading as bees, and real honeybees which have taken up home in chimneys, attics, and walls. And of course wasps and hornets. With luck, at least one time a year, you’ll be provided a football-sized, prime swarm, dangling out of the horizontal branch of an apple tree, handily at shoulder height. This is actually the one to put in on your flat top bar hive, by massaging it in the box as though it had been liquid, or operating it up a slope in your Warré. These bees are in excellent condition for you off to a fantastic start: filled with honey and excitement, they’ll get busy construction combs and everything you want to do is observe in amazement.
However, supposing the season is passing you by and no more stringing has emerged. You desperately need to begin, and you’re taking a look at advertisements for nucs, which you guess are led with an imported queen. Or maybe a friend has bees in their National, that is looking like they’ve swarmed aspirations. How do you get bees out of frames to high bars without breaking wood and brood? Is it possible?
Luckily, it’s not just possible, but rather simple to carry out.
To get a standard’ top bar hive (utilizing 17″ pubs ) you require temporary access to ownership of a National hive brood box comprising 5-8 great frames of bees and brood, with or without honey. This is sometimes a nuc which you’ve purchased and put to a full-size brood box, or it might be a buddy’s hive they don’t mind you playing. (I must state that this surgery may also be achieved as explained using Langstroth or some other kind of frame hive, given the pubs on your TBH will be the same length as the ones from the framework hive.)
The System is as follows:
Set the busy hive (the one containing your nucleus and extra frames) at the specific place where your top bar hive will afterward stand, with its entrance facing in the path selected to be likely to cause aggravation for you or your acquaintances.
Separate frames comprising brood into pairs and then put a leading bar between every group, restoring spacing into usual. (This is the reason why you start with less than a complete complement of eyeglasses )
Leave 7-10 days, then carefully assess the pubs for combs. The bees will probably have attracted straight comb on every pub, into that the queen would have put eggs, a few of which could have risen to the pupal phase already. You may well discover the queen one of those newest combs.
On a bright day, proceed the busy hive many paces in any suitable way, and put the TBH in its prior place. You may notice returning foragers coming house, looking puzzled their home has shifted shape, but fast locating the new entry.
Gently move the newly-drawn top pub cubes, with adhering bees, and set them side by side from the TBH, checking to determine whether the queen is about among these. If she’s, good and well. If not, then you want to locate her move her to the new hive, taking good care that she does not take flight.
Today you have to shake roughly half of the bees in the frame hive in the TBH, including several bars on both sides of these already there. Place follower planks and shut up.
Close to the framework, after incorporating new frames to fill the openings made by taking away the very best bars.
Today you’ve got a queen-right colony at your top bar hive, together with foragers earning meals like nothing has occurred, along with a queenless colony at the National, together with the tools to create themselves a brand new queen (check they’ve eggs and newly-emerged creatures ). Unless there’s a leak, I recommend you feed the two colonies in this stage: one wants to construct a comb, while another wants to draw a queen.
The principle we’re tapping here’s that the ability of bees to go back to the specific point in space where they understand their house to be or to have been if they left to search for food. This is sometimes used to move bees out of any hive to some other, given the new box could be substituted for the aged. The further measure of persuading them to construct appropriately movable combs ahead of the move makes the procedure simpler but isn’t essential. You might want to balance the inhabitants in new and old colonies, and this is where your decision for a beekeeper comes in to play.
Moving a colony out of frames into a Warré might be carried out similarly, but you’d need to make some particular eyeglasses and sterile off the regions on both sides, to prevent the comb from being constructed where it is not going to match. A simpler method – particularly throughout the build-up phase – would be to set the National brood box in addition to a Warré box, using a plywood’mask’ between to reduce the aperture to 250mm and branch boards at the National to prevent sideways expansion. The entry should be under the lower box. Comb-builders will get active to allow down expansion, and if you put at least two boxes beneath the first, it is possible to leave the National set up until it becomes back-filled using honey. Down it, since the arrangement is inherently top-heavy.
An overall principle which I found the hard way is it is no usage putting a vacant box even one which contains starter strips of base – over an inhabited hive. More likely than not they will refuse to begin in the top and work down as you may anticipate, but will rather build up paints upward, and in all manner of uneven shapes – in the tops of the frames at the lower box. The resulting mess will take you some time and likely much cursing to manage.
It might have happened to you that this procedure also has the impact of producing a nearly Varroa-free new colony because the majority of the mites will be sealed to brood cells at the framework hive. (You can work out for yourself how this could be accommodated as a pest management technique.) Conversely, it follows you might be keeping up a parasite problem on your framework hive, which might require dealing with before it becomes severe. The 3week period without a fresh brood will, nevertheless, play in your favor, since the fleas have a diminishing amount of brood cells to occupy and also will be subjected to easy bio-mechanical remedies, including powdered sugar, as well regarding the dressing task of the bees.